Welcome to the Galápagos where sweet delight or endless night are abounding in plenty.  This archipelago is the pinnacle of paradise or purgatory, depending on where you are on the predator or prey spectrum.   Take a detour to Guayaquil, a lovely town that smells of diesel, humidity, and grandma's sweaters. Visit the Malecón and take a stroll along the Venice imitation canals eating crepes; lamp posts blasting Americana songs along every corner.  Speak to locals confidently in your language, and they will confidently answer you back using theirs; acting as if fully understanding you.   You imitate likewise.  On Isabela, there is a lovely cove for snorkeling; penguins, iguanas, eagle rays, sea turtles, white-tipped sharks, sea lions will all swim right next to you in the waters.  Immerse in the origin of Species at the Darwin Center.  Enjoy colonialism at his best by visiting the Wall of Tears.   Visit the turtle breeding center and learn all about Lonesome George the last of his species of tortoise that died out. There are Lava bridges that local fisherman will enthusiastically transport you to with wetsuits and snorkeling gear provided.  Screaming when boat riding with Spanish tourists on choppy waves is optional.  When you arrive at the tunnels, stare down at the still water of emerald.  The water is so beautiful it will make you ache for love as Lonesome George may have longed for a companion.